SIDE TABLE | Minwax

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Here’s a perfect table for use in a front hall, behind a living-room sofa or in your bedroom for showcasing your favorite knickknacks. Besides being

narrow enough to fit in a variety of locations, its two drawers provide convenient storage for small items. For intermediate woodworkers, the tapered

legs, doweled joints and close tolerances throughout will present a challenge but also produce great satisfaction when properly executed. And when

it’s all assembled, you’ll learn more about applying and using stains and finishes to protect the wood and keep it looking beautiful.

WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT

SIDE TABLE

CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE

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TOOLS REQUIRED SHOPPING LIST

WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS

Hand Tools

– Hammer

– Nail set

– 4' pipe clamp

– 18" pipe clamps (4)

– Doweling jig

Power Tools

– Tablesaw with combination

rip/crosscut blade and dado blade

– Saber saw

– Router, 3/8" roundover bit

– Jigsaw

– Electric drill

Miscellaneous

– Pencil

– Tape measure

– Safety glasses

– Carpenter’s glue

– 120, 150 and 220-grit sandpaper

– Clean, lint-free cloths

– Respirator

– Gloves for finishing

– Mineral spirits (for oil-based stains

and finishes)

– Water-filled metal container with

tight-fitting lid (for oil-based stains

and finishes waste products)

– Minwax

Wood Finish

™

Stain

Brush or other good quality,

natural-bristle brush (for oil-

based stains and finishes)

– Minwax

Polycrylic

Brush or other

good quality, synthetic-bristle brush

(for water-based stains and finishes)

Recommended Finish

Prep: Minwax

Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

Stain: Minwax

Wood Finish

™

English Chestnut (or your choice

of any of the 24 Minwax

Wood Finish

™

Stain colors)

Finish: Minwax

Wipe-On Poly Satin or Gloss

Alternate Finish

Prep: Minwax

Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

Stain: Minwax

Water Based Wood Stain Verdigris (or a

Minwax

Water Based Wood Stain

of your choice, available

in 50 custom-mixed colors and a White Wash Pickling Stain.)

ytitnauQ metI

'6 @ 2 ,'9 @ 1kao 8x1

'6 @ 1hcrib 4x2

'6 @ 2hcrib 6x1

'6 @ 2hcrib 4x1

1/4" birch plywood 1 @ 12" x 36"

4d finish nails 50

3/8" x 2" dowel pins 16

#8 x 3/4" pan-head screws with washers 2

Oak drawer knobs 2

Tabletop fasteners 6

Overall Dimensions: 32"H x 48"W x 14"D

Key Part Pcs. Material Dimensions

A Table top 1 oak 3/4" x 14" x 48"

B Legs 4 birch 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 31-1/4"

C Front & back aprons 2 birch 3/4" x 4-1/2" x 37"

D Side aprons 2 birch 3/4" x 4-1/2" x 10"

E Drawer fronts 2 birch 3/4" x 3-5/8" x 15-1/2"

F Drawer sides 4 birch 3/4" x 2-7/8" x 11"

G Drawer backs 2 birch 3/4" x 2-3/8" x 13-3/4"

H Upper drawer runners 2 birch 3/4" x 2" x 10-3/4"

J Drawer runners 4 birch 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 10-3/4"

K Drawer runners 4 birch 3/4" x 3/4" x 10-3/4"

L Stop blocks 2 birch 3/4" x 3/4" x 6"

M Drawer bottoms 2 birch plywood 1/4" x 10-3/4" x 13-3/4"

N Drawer stops 2 birch plywood 1/4" x 1" x 3"

Recommended Wood: Oak/Birch

Alternate Wood: Pine (stain grade)

CUTTING LIST

Finish: Minwax

Polycrylic

Protective Finish Semi-Gloss

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make

the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have

any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always

discuss them with your shop instructor.

• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a

tool to the project lumber.

• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work that

creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate respirator

whenever making sawdust or working with thinners or other solvents.

• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put

away all portable tools.

CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY

PROCEDURE

Glue the Top

1. To make the top (A), edge-glue together two 1 x 8 boards that are

49" long. Alternate the direction of the growth rings in the end grain of

the boards to prevent the top from warping. After the glue has dried,

cut the top to its finished dimension.

Make the Initial Cuts

2. Cut all the pieces, (B) through (N), to the dimensions given in the

CUTTING LIST. Glue the drawer runner pieces, (J) and (K), together.

Taper the Legs

The legs are made of solid birch stock 1-1/2" thick. If you have trouble

finding birch that thick, glue together two 3/4" pieces. The taper on

two sides of each leg is easy to cut with a homemade tapering jig.

The drawers are boxes assembled with nails–very easy to make and

align–and they ride on wooden runners.

3. Make the leg-tapering jig by cutting a 3/4"-thick piece of scrap

plywood 5" wide by 33" long (Fig. 4). Draw the angled side as shown

in the diagram and cut out the notch with a saber saw.

4. To cut the legs, set the tablesaw fence 5" from the saw blade and

set the blade slightly higher than 1-1/2". You must cut a taper on two

adjacent sides of each leg and leave the sides that fit against the

aprons uncut. Place a leg (B) in the notch of the taper jig and slide

the jig across the table, holding it tight to the fence (Fig. 5). Use a

push stick to hold the leg tight against the side of the notch as you cut

the taper. Rotate the leg 90 degrees in the jig so the tapered side you

just cut is facing up, then cut the other tapered side of the leg. Repeat

these steps for the remaining three legs.

Drill the Dowel Holes

5. Drilling the dowel holes can be confusing unless you first mark

which sides of the legs (B) and ends of the apron pieces (C) go

together. The easiest way to do this is to place all the legs and apron

pieces upside down on your worktable in the relative positions they’ll

assume when the base is assembled. Label each joint with a different

identifying mark so you can assemble it the same way later.

oodworker’s Tip:

Drilling the dowel holes in the legs and aprons

is simpler and more accurate if you use a dowel-drilling jig. Place a

piece of masking tape on the drill bit for a depth stop flat.

6. Mark the positions of the dowel holes in the sides of the legs and

the ends of the apron pieces (Fig. 3). Offset the dowels slightly on

each side of the legs so they won’t interfere with each other. Drill

the 3/8"-diameter dowel holes.

7. With the tablesaw blade set 1/4" high, cut the grooves for the

tabletop fasteners 1/2" from the top edge of the front and back

aprons (C, Figs. 3 and 6).

Assembling the Table

There are three stages in assembling the table. First, construct the

frame from the legs and apron pieces. Second, make the drawers.

Third, complete the top, which has already been glued together

and cut to size.

Construct the Frame

8. Lay out and cut the two drawer openings in one of the long apron

pieces (C). To do this, drill 3/8" holes within the cutout area of

each opening. Then use a saber saw to cut along each line. Proceed

slowly and carefully to ensure straight cuts and square corners.

After the cutting, file and sand all edges smooth.

9. Sand the legs and aprons with 120-grit paper, then smooth them all

with 180-grit paper. Dowel, glue and clamp the front legs to the front

apron and the back legs to the back apron. Then dowel, glue and

clamp the side aprons to the assembled front and back. Quickly wipe

away excess glue with a damp cloth.

Make the Drawers

10. Drill the holes for the knobs in the drawer fronts (E, Fig. 1).

Shape the drawer front edges with a router and 3/8" roundover bit.

11. Cut rabbets 1-1/8" wide by 3/8" deep on the inside ends of the

drawer fronts, using a dado blade on the tablesaw. Use the tablesaw

miter gauge to ensure square cuts. Clamp a stop block to the fence

to hold the piece the correct distance from the blade. Cut rabbets

3/4" wide x 1/4" deep on the back ends of the drawer sides (F) in

the same way (Fig. 2). Cut the grooves for the drawer bottoms (M)

in the drawer fronts and sides.

12. Sand all the drawer pieces, then glue and clamp all the pieces

together except for the drawer bottoms. Push the bottoms into their

grooves after finishing, to avoid having to wipe the stain and topcoat

out of the corners.

13. Drill pilot holes, and then drive finish nails through the drawer

sides into the drawer fronts and backs. To make nailing easier, clamp

the drawer front or back in a vise so that the drawer side is supported

on the top edge of the vise jaw. Use a nail set to finish driving the nails

into the drawer fronts past the lips of the fronts.

14. Align the upper drawer runners (H, Fig. 1) between the front

and back aprons. Use a clamp to hold them in place, then drill

pilot holes and drive finish nails. Use a nail set to drive the heads

below the surface. Fill the nail holes with wood putty. Then glue the

stop block (L) in place at the bottom of each drawer opening in

the front apron.

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE

Affix the Lower Runners

15. To mount the runners (J, K) that guide the sides and bottoms of

the drawers, set the table base on its back and align the drawers in

their openings. Set them tight to the bottom edge of the opening in the

apron, with an even gap on each side.

16. Set the drawer runners in place and mark their outside edges

on the front and back aprons (Fig. 6). Mark where the ends of the

drawer runners join the front and back apron pieces. Leave a 1/32"

gap between the runners and the sides of the drawers. Hammer finish

nails through the aprons and into the drawer runners to hold them

in place. Use a nail set to drive the nailheads slightly below the surface.

Fill the nail holes with wood putty.

17. Finish the drawer assembly after the final topcoat is dry. Slide the

drawer bottoms (M) into their grooves and then fasten them with two

4d finish nails driven into the drawer backs.

18. Attach the knobs to the drawer fronts and pivoted stops to the

backs of the drawers. The stops are 1"x 3" pieces of 1/4" plywood.

Attach them with a single pan-head screw and a washer (see Drawer

Section View, Fig. 2).

19. Reattach the top to the base with table fastener brackets (Fig 6).

Leave a 1/16" space between the fasteners and the aprons to allow the

top to expand. Turn the rear drawer stops horizontal so you can slide

the drawers in place. Then turn the stops downward so the drawers

won’t fall out when you open them.

STAINING AND FINISHING

Woodworker’s Tip:

Though you may be tempted to cut short

your sanding, preparation and application time, don’t do it.

These tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality

finish. Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and

smoothness of the parts that will have great bearing on how

people judge your craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result,

follow the steps listed in this section and also the instructions

the finish manufacturer puts on its products.

FINISHING TIPS

• Test the stains and finishes you are planning to use on scraps of

wood. On the back of the scrap, mark the stain/finish combination

and the type of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before

making your final finish selection. Save your samples for quick

reference on future projects.

• All stains and finishes must be allowed to dry thoroughly between

coats. Remember that drying times can vary due to humidity and

other climatic conditions.

• If you have some leftover stain or finish, wipe the can rim so that

stain or finish in the rim won’t dry out and prevent the lid from

forming a tight seal.

• Brushes used for water-based products, such as Minwax

Water-

Based Wood Stains or Minwax

Polycrylic

Protective Finish, must

be cleaned with soap and water; oil-based finishes must be cleaned

with mineral spirits.

20. Sand all pieces starting with 120-grit paper, then move up to 220-

grit to complete the pre-finish smoothing. Use an orbital sander to

remove any marks or scratches, then lightly sand by hand using with-

the-grain sanding strokes. Dust off the piece and wipe it carefully with

a clean, lint-free cloth lightly dampened with mineral spirits.

Recommended Finish

21. Apply the Minwax

Wood Finish

™

you’ve chosen to the interior

surfaces using a natural-bristle brush and a clean, lint-free cloth

following the directions on the can. The brush will help you get the

stain into the many inside corners and other tight spots. Allow the

Wood Finish

™

to set for about 5 to 15 minutes, then wipe off any

excess. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a second coat after

4-6 hours, repeating the application directions for the first coat.

Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying the protective

clear finish.

oodworker’s Tip:

Different species of wood take to stain dif-

ferently. When using a combination of woods like oak and birch,

you may need to apply a second or third coat to birch to achieve

a uniform finish. When wiping off stain, make certain that your

last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood. This

way, any stain you might miss during wipe-off will be visually

minimized by the wood grain.

22. Apply Minwax

Wipe-On Poly following the directions on the can.

Shake the can thoroughly. Apply a liberal amount of Wipe-On Poly on a

clean, soft, lint-free cloth into the wood. It can be brushed on or wiped

on with a cloth. Allow the first coat to dry for at least 4 hours.

23. Once completely dry, sand all surfaces very lightly with 220-grit

or finer sandpaper or very fine (000) steel wool using with-the-grain

strokes. Thoroughly wipe off all surfaces with a soft cloth. Apply a

second coat of Minwax

Wipe-On Poly and set the piece aside to dry

for at least 4 hours.

24. Once completely dry, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit or finer

sandpaper or very fine (000) steel wool. Thoroughly wipe off the piece

with a soft cloth and apply a third and final coat of Wipe-On Poly. Allow

the table to cure for several days before using it.

oodworker’s Tip:

For an ultrasmooth finish, use 400-grit

sandpaper to apply the final coat of Minwax

Wipe-On Poly.

Alternate Finish

25. Before applying Minwax

Water-Based Wood Stain to a hardwood

or softwood, apply Minwax

Pre-Stain Water-Based Wood Conditioner

following the directions on the can. This will help to ensure even

absorption of stain and prevent blotchiness that can occur with some

woods. After 1 to 5 minutes, wipe off all excess conditioner using a

clean, soft cloth. Wait 15 to 30 minutes then use 220-grit or finer sand-

paper to sand off any “whiskers” raised by the conditioner. Proceed to

the staining within 2 hours.

26. Do the staining in two steps, starting on the interior surfaces and

then do to the exterior surfaces. Apply the Minwax

Water-Based

Wood Stain you’ve chosen to the table using either a nylon/polyester

brush or a cloth. Allow stain to penetrate no longer than 3 minutes.

While stain is still wet, wipe off all excess with a clean cloth that’s been

lightly dampened with stain. Allow the piece to dry for 2 hours before

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE

This project was adapted with permission from

he Family

Handyman

magazine, Home Services Publications, Inc., an

affiliate of Reader’s Digest Association, Inc., Suite 700, 2915

reserved. For subscriptions call toll-free: 1-800-285-4961.

applying a second coat, if desired. Allow the piece to dry overnight

before applying the protective clear finish.

NOTE: Minwax

Water Based Wood Stain is available in 50 custom-

mixed colors and a White Wash Pickling Stain. So, you can

actually pick and apply a color to complement the décor of the

room in which the table will be placed. For this reason, make sure

you look over all of the Minwax

color charts or go to minwax.com

before making your final selection.

27. After allowing the piece to dry overnight, apply Minwax

Polycrylic

Protective Finish following the directions on the can. Stir the can

contents thoroughly before starting and periodically repeat the stirring

during your work session.

28. Working a small area at a time to maintain a wet edge, apply

the first coat. Work quickly and make the final strokes in each

newly finished section using with-the-grain brushstrokes.

29. Allow the finish to dry a minimum of 2 hours. Then sand lightly

with 220-grit or finer sandpaper wrapped around a flexible sanding

block. Thoroughly dust off and wipe all surfaces with a cloth lightly

dampened with water.

30. Repeat steps 28 and 29 to apply the second and final coat.

PRODUCT SAFETY

For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the

safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow

them to the letter.

WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means

may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or

fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially

in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other

hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment,

such as properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper

containment and cleanup. For more information, call the National Lead

Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in US) or contact your local

health authority.

DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with oil-based stains

and clear finishes, and sanding residue may spontaneously catch fire if

improperly

discarded. Immediately place rags, steel wool, other waste

soaked with these products, and sanding residue in a sealed, water-filled

metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.

When using oil-based wood finishing products:

CAUTIONS: CONTAINS ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS. Contents

are COMBUSTIBLE. Keep away from heat and open flame. VAPOR

HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid overexposure,

open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry

during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches,

or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protection (NIOSH

approved) or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash

hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use. Do not transfer

contents to other containers for storage.

FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large

amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin

contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory

difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, call Poison

Control Center, hospital emergency room, or physician immediately.

DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM OVEREXPOSURE.

Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous

system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and

inhaling contents may be harmful or fatal.

WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of

California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for more health

information.

When using water-based wood finishing products:

CAUTIONS: Use Only With Adequate Ventilation. To avoid overexposure,

open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry

during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches,

or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protection (NIOSH

approved), or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash

hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use. Do not transfer

contents to other containers for storage.

FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts

of water. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If swallowed, get

medical attention immediately.

WARNING: This product contains chemicals

known to the State of

California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for more health

information.

FIG 1. TABLE DETAILS

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE

/2" Rad. (side and front edges)

/8" Dia. x 2" Dowel Pin

(2 per joint)

/4" Dia. Oak Knob

/2"

Saw Kerf

Tabletop Overhang

Tabletop Fastener (6 req’d.)

1" Rad. (front corners)

Glue Only

In this area

taper leg on

inside two

sides to 1"

square (see

taper jig).

4d Finish Nail-

2 per Joint Set

and Fill

FIG 2. DRAWER DETAILS

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE

DRAWER ( PLAN VIEW)

DRAWER (SECTION VIEW)

/8"

/4"

eulGeulG

/4" x

/4" Grooves

/4" Dia. Hole

/8" Rad.

4d Finish Nails

4d Finish Nail

No. 8 x

/4" Pan-head

Screw and Washer

FIG 3. LEG AND APRON DETAILS

LIATED TNORFLIATED EDIS

/8"

/4"

/2"

/8"

/2"

15"

/2"

/4"

/8" Dia. x 1-

/16"–

Deep Dowel Holes

/8" x

/4" Saw Kerf Front and Back

FIG 5. CUTTING THE LEGS

FIG 7. MARK THE DRAWER RUNNERS

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: INTERMEDIATE PROJECT SIDE TABLE

Taper Jig

Blade guard removed

for clarity only. Always

use your guard.

/32" Gap

FIG 6. REATTACH TO BASE

Sawn Groove

Tabletop

Fastener

/16" Gap

FIG 4. TAPERING JIG

/4"

/8"

33"