DAY 3
Descend through the Samaria Gorge to the isolated seaside settlement of Agia
Roumeli.
We won't start too early this morning, so we can miss the crowds of tourists who arrive early by bus
from the resorts of the northern coast to walk down the extremely popular Samaria Gorge. This is the
longest ravine in Europe and arguably the most spectacular. Our baggage is taken down to Sougia and
by ferry from there to Agia Roumeli, whilst we take the short transfer to Xiloskala (1250m) a viewpoint
overlooking the gorge. Here, we chill out in a cafe that overlooks the descent path and then, in the late
morning, we set off on our walk. By this time, the area is usually deserted. For the rst 2km of the walk,
we descend dramatically via a path that leads to the bottom of the upper gorge. The peaks of Gingilos
and Volakias tower above us, as gigantic walls of rock, whilst on our left-hand side the White Mountains
extend to the east. The small chapel of Agios Nikolaos, nestling among pines and cypresses, signals the
start of a more gentle descent and soon we reach the old hamlet of Samaria. From here, the path twists
and turns, passing Saint Mary's Church, which has the date 1379 over the doorway. We soon reach the
narrowest part of the gorge, the famous 'Portes' (Gates). Here, the rock architecture is amazing, with the
walls soaring vertically upwards for 500 metres on either side of the path. The nal few kilometres bring
us to the welcome sight of Agia Roumeli and the Libyan Sea. Arriving in the late afternoon, we nd that
the vast majority of the people who have walked the gorge have already departed from Agia Roumeli by
ferry, either westwards to Sougia or eastwards to Hora Sfakion. Once they've gone, Agia Roumeli returns
to its tranquil self, nestling between wild mountains and the deep blue sea. This is the hidden Crete that
most tourists never experience. Whilst in Agia Roumeli, we stay at a comfortable hotel and take our
evening meals at the quite excellent Artemis Restaurant.
Meals: B L D
Accommodation
Hotel
Descent
1200M
Time
5 - 7 hrs walking
Distance
16KM
DAY 4
Free day at Agia Roumeli. Optional walks to a number of ancient Turkish forts.
Until the rst of the day’s walkers make their way down the gorge, which is usually not until mid
afternoon, Agia Roumeli is the perfect Cretan hideaway and the perfect spot to relax for the day. A small
clean pebbly beach lies in front of the village and is an excellent spot for swimming. Alternatively, a short
walk to the east leads to an even quieter beach that stretches for miles. For those who are keen to do
some exercise, there is a choice of possible walks. The clearly visible Turkish fort above the village can be
reached in 45 minutes and a decent path to the north leads to the old settlement of Agia Roumeli,
providing an easy 2 hour circuit. Longer walking options include the ascent to Papoura, a beautiful spot
900 metres (3000 feet) above the village. It is a steep climb of 3 to 4 hours to reach Papoura, but the
rewards are great views of the coast, the mountains and the Samaria Gorge from above. After the day’s
tourists have departed, we will enjoy a peaceful night at our hotel and have another opportunity to
sample the famous Cretan food at the Artemis Restaurant.
Meals: B D
4
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